Culinary Fool

An Unlikely Combo

03-Mar-2010

There is something about grapefruit and avocado that does not produce an intuitive combination. My taste memories can’t quite bring those two tastes and textures together in my head even though I’ve been making this salad for several years. When served to someone for the first time I can always see a little question mark in their eyes; a little concern as they try to calculate what it’s going to taste like. But once they taste it, they are generally sold on it and wonder why they haven’t had it before. The resulting combination is wonderful! At my last brunch this was the most talked about dish; the one nearly everyone told me how much they liked it. And it’s really nothing more that what it looks like – pink grapefruit segments and avocado slices.

As you can imagine it is super simple to make although you have to be a little careful of your timing since avocado can turn dark and unappealingly if cut too early. But you can make the lemon vinaigrette a day or two before you need it and even prepare the grapefruit a day prior. The hardest part is segmenting the grapefruit and that is actually more time-consuming than hard.

Start by making the vinaigrette. This recipe makes a lot more than you will need but it will hold in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks and can be used on any salad. It’s best, though, when used fairly quickly while the lemon juice retains its fresh flavor.

This amount will serve 3 or 4 people.

1 tsp Dijon mustard

¼ cup fresh lemon juice (1 to 2 lemons)

½ cup olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

Whisk together the mustard and lemon juice until smooth. Continue whisking while slowly drizzling in the olive oil until completely blended. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Prepare the salad ingredients.

2 pink grapefruit

2 avocados (I prefer Haas avocados)

Cut the peel from the grapefruit taking care to remove all of the white pith. Then hold the grapefruit over a bowl and cut close to the membrane (the part between each of the segments) on each side of the grapefruit segments, carefully freeing them from the fruit. If there are any seeds in the segment remove them at this time. You want to work over a bowl to catch all the juice that will be released. You can either drop the segments in the bowl with the juice or place them in another bowl. Either way you’ll want to drain the extra juice before mixing with the avocado. You can drink the juice or save it and mix it in a cocktail later!

Once the grapefruit is segmented slice the avocado. Ideally, you should do this just before serving to ensure the avocado doesn’t discolor before serving, no more than an hour prior. First cut the avocado in half. Take the half without the seed, slice a skinny, little bit off the top (the stem end). This will make it easier to remove the avocado from the skin in nice, whole pieces. Cut the flesh into four or five slices from top to bottom. Carefully pull the skin off the avocado slices and set them aside.

Remove the seed from the other half and repeat the slicing process, then do the same with the other avocado. Drizzle the avocado slices with some of the lemon vinaigrette. Very carefully toss the avocado to ensure the vinaigrette is covering the surface of the avocado as it will help delay the discoloration.

Arrange the avocado slices around the outside of a platter.

Drain any juice from the grapefruit slices and arrange them in the center of the avocado slices. If you’d like, drizzle a bit more of the vinaigrette over the grapefruit. And (or) you may also want to finish with a little sprinkle of sea salt.

And one more use for those beans…

02-Mar-2010

I promise that this will be the last post about white beans. Cannellini beans to be specific. At least for awhile. It’s just that they are so versatile and can be used in so many ways! When last I left you I was contemplating a white chili but my thoughts changed when I decided to pull some of "my" lamb (a few months ago I purchased a half lamb from a Yakima farmer) from the freezer. So the cannellini beans were reinvented as a base for a seared loin chop.

Since the beans were already cooked – and to refresh your memory the original incarnation had them flavored with garlic, olive oil and rosemary – I first worked on the other ingredients.

First a sliced sweet onion went into the pan with a little olive oil. I cooked it down until it was becoming translucent. Then I added two cloves of thinly sliced garlic and a couple of bay leaves. Once all of that was very tender, one pint of homegrown canned tomatoes (I love when I use my own produce!) went into the pot and I added a little more chopped, fresh rosemary along with salt and pepper.

I let this simmer for about an hour to reduce the liquid from the tomatoes and to allow all the flavors to meld. The result was a sweet and savory tomato sauce. At this point the beans were added to the pot and the heat turned down to very low. I let the beans gently warm up while I seared the lamb chop.

When the chop was cooked to medium rare I plated a couple of scoops of beans, added the lamb and topped it with some chopped kalamata olives. I put a couple of slices of lemon on the plate (that’s a Meyer lemon in the photo, hence the orangish color) and just before eating squeezed them over the dish.

The sweet tomato-onion sauce with the salty olives, rich lamb and acidity of the lemon all came together in a nicely balanced kaleidescope of flavors! A nice winter to spring to dish.

Chocolate-Banana Bread

01-Mar-2010

While I was looking through cookbooks for inspiration for my recent brunch, I came across this Chocolate Banana Bread recipe in one my my Tyler Florence cookbooks. I already had both my pastry and dessert strategy planned but I made a note of the recipe for future use – especially since I had a large bunch of bananas I was certain would get really ripe before I could finish them. And they did.

This morning I mixed up this easy recipe before starting work, popped it in the oven and have just sliced and consumed a piece. Okay. Two pieces!

This bread is moist and spongy like other banana bread. It’s really not too chocolaty which surprised me with the deep color. Instead the chocolate flavor enhances. It’s more apparent as you first take a bite, then gives way to more of the banana taste. Best of all the bread is not too sweet. I noticed that Tyler dusted his finished loaf with powdered sugar and I’d do that if I was planning to use this for dessert. For a mid-morning snack with tea coffee, however, it’s pretty perfect as is.

You can find the recipe in his Tyler’s Ultimate cookbook or on his blog here. I highly recommend purchasing the cookbook, though. In my experience Tyler’s recipes are always well-crafted, work as expected and are crowd pleasers!

March is a Busy Month!

01-Mar-2010

Lots going on in the Seattle area this month – including two full month promotions.

First, it’s Washington Wine Month! Which means Washington’s wines will be featured and on special at many restaurants and retail wine shops. Some of the best deals can be found at the Washington State Liquor Stores. Wine Press Northwest always publishes a handy-dandy guide of what you’ll find on special at the liquor stores. But make sure you check your local wine shop, too. Most of them will have sales throughout the month.

It’s also time to start Dine Around Seattle. 3-course, $30 dinners at many of the Seattle areas finest establishments, Monday through Thursday until March 31. Several also offer $15 lunches. Check out the full list here including information on the menus each place is offering.

The Scarlet Tree

28-Feb-2010

Several years ago there was a fire at The Scarlet Tree restaurant and it seemed we’d seen the last of it. It was a favorite breakfast place of mine and they were also a great venue for music in the evenings, especially for jazz bands. Their closing left a hole in the surrounding community.

A few weeks ago I noticed that after a four year break they had suddenly reopened! Not in the exact same location but just a few blocks away at the corner of 8th and 65th in Ravenna. This weekend I met a couple friends there for breakfast. The new location is much brighter and more light-filled than the old. It has two levels with the bar taking up most of the first floor. The second level is built as a balcony overlooking the main level.

We arrived at 10:30 and were immediately seated – this would not have been the case at the old location. I’m guessing most people are not aware of this new incarnation. From our treehouse perch on the second level we could see out to the surrounding neighborhood.

A couple of us started our meal with their Bloody Marys, which are a traditional and spicy rendition of this breakfast favorite. We all ordered from the specials menu. T had the biscuits with gravy and substituted fruit for the potatoes. A and I both ordered the Southwestern Benedict, a deliciously messy and spicy version of the traditional dish. Instead of an English muffin base there was moist cornbread anchoring the dish. Black beans topped the cornbread and then perfectly poached eggs covered with a chipotle Hollandaise sauce finished it off.

My only disappointment was that these dishes didn’t come with a scone – in the past one of my favorite parts of breakfast at The Scarlet Tree. Although I would not have had room for a scone anyway.

I wouldn’t say the food here is something that "can’t be missed" but instead that it is good, solid, tasty food at a decent price. A place you can go back to time and time again for the comfort you’ll find served on every plate.

The Scarlet Tree

801 NE 65th St Suite C

Ravenna

Seattle

206.523.8888

Before and After: Or Using Leftovers

27-Feb-2010

If you come to a brunch at my house – or really any meal or party where food is involved – you will come to understand that I use my guests as Guinea pigs. I am always trying new recipes! And they mostly turn out well but there is always a risk they may not.

While I was looking for something to do with cauliflower, I think, I came across something totally different that caught my imagination. In Martha Stewart’s Menus for Entertaining I came across a menu and recipes for a Tuscan Buffet. One of the recipes, Roasted Tomatoes Topped with White Beans, sounded so good to me. If I closed my eyes I could imagine the summer sun, the scent of herbs and juicy red tomatoes. I don’t often cook with beans and it’s been something I’ve been meaning to practice on a more regular basis so the recipe was appealing from that perspective, too.

Now, of course this is winter in Seattle where ripe and flavorful tomatoes are pretty scarce but I still thought I might be able to make it work. The recipe called for roasted tomatoes and normally that process will help transform a so-so tomato into something more reminiscent of a ripened-in-your-own-garden version. I bought beefsteak tomatoes more than a week prior so they’d have plenty of time to turn red and develop as much flavor as possible.

As per the recipe I sliced them and roasted them with salt, pepper, a little sugar and olive oil to help bring out the natural flavors and sweetness. After roasting they were okay but not great so I enhanced them further with a splash of good balsamic. I modified Martha’s white bean recipe a bit by using lots of fresh rosemary to flavor the beans, along with garlic, salt and pepper.

I did like the recipe, although the tomatoes really didn’t bring as much as they should have to the dish. I’m looking forward to trying it again with proper summer tomatoes. And the few slices I had leftover were great warmed in the microwave for lunch the next couple days.

I also made about twice as many beans as I needed for the tomatoes so a few days later decided to try to replicate a white bean spread I’ve had in the past. It’s super simple but really great smeared on crusty bread and accompanied by a nice glass of wine.

I took about a cup of the beans, added chopped chives and more garlic, salt and pepper. This all went into a mini food processor with some olive oil. As I blended I continued to add more olive oil (it needed quite a bit) to get the puree to the consistency that I wanted. When it finally got there a taste test told me it needed just a little something more and I decided that was a little heat. I added quite a bit of Sriracha as the density and texture of the beans really mellow the heat from the sauce. It took several squirts before the sauce had an effect on the puree.

After scooping the puree into the serving dish I drizzled a bit more fruity olive oil over the top and then enjoyed it spread on slices of baguette. And there was also a nice glass of Syrah involved.

I have a few more beans left and am thinking they may find themselves in a white bean chili….

Chocolate Sorbet

26-Feb-2010

In addition to the Meyer Lemon Sorbet I wanted my guests to have another option as they finished brunch. I decided to make a chocolate sorbet. Nearly everyone loves chocolate, right? And this is a recipe for chocolate lovers! The chocolate taste is deep, rich and decadent. Almost ice-cream like, it’s hard to believe there’s no dairy or eggs in this recipe. Because the chocolate is so prominent it is imperative that you use a good brand. You won’t be sorry that you spent a little extra!

This recipe is based on one from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz, my go-to book for all sweet things frozen.

Chocolate Sorbet

2¼ cups water

1 cup sugar

¾ cup Dutch-process cocoa powder

¼ salt

6 oz bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (I used Callebaut Bittersweet )

½ tsp vanilla

2 – 3 Tbsp Vodka, optional (you could also use a nut-flavored liquor like Frangelico)

In a large pan combine half the water with the sugar, cocoa powder and salt. Bring to a boil. Whisk the mixture while it continues to boil for 1 minute (you want to ensure the sugar is fully incorporated into the water).

Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Stir until melted. Stir in the remaining water and vanilla extract. Transfer to a blender and process for 15 to 30 seconds. Add the vodka, if you choose, and blend another few seconds. The vodka will help keep the sorbet from freezing too solidly.

Transfer to a bowl or storage container and chill for several hours or overnight. The mixture will get very thick and may need to be stirred before being added to your ice-cream maker and frozen based on the manufacturer’s instructions.

Because of the density of the chocolate this sorbet stays viscous and not much air is incorporated during the freezing process. It doesn’t look too much different coming out of the freezer than it did going in. As mentioned, this is a super-rich recipe and a little will go a long way. The recipe makes about 1 quart and that is plenty for a small, rich serving for around twenty people. If you want a more traditional sized scoop (as in the photo above) you’d want to double the recipe.

Meyer Lemon Sorbet

25-Feb-2010

I’ve been enjoying the seasonal availability of Meyer lemons in my local markets. If you’ve never had a Meyer lemon they taste like a cross between a tangerine and a lemom. All the information I’ve seen only speculates on the Meyer lemon’s heritage so no one seems to know for sure. But who needs to know for sure when the result is so delicious?

This last week’s project was sorbet for a brunch I held last weekend. I’ll tell you more about the brunch in a future post but right now let’s just cover the sorbet. Because the Meyer lemon has that hint of tangerine they are not quite as tart as a regular lemon, yet they are not as sweet as their orange-colored citrus relations. So I created a recipe that took that into account.

Overall I really liked the sorbet! However, the recipe I came up with had two slight imperfections I’ll modify the next time I make the recipe.

First, I’ll increase the amount of sugar just a little bit. I like tart foods but this had a little too much of an edge to it. However, several of my guests said they wouldn’t change that at all, which surprised me. So I wouldn’t add too much more sugar – maybe 1/8 of a cup.

Also, I had added a little bit of limoncello to the mixture to keep it from freezing too solidly but it wasn’t enough. The sorbet was rock hard and took quite a long time to get soft enough to scoop when removed from the frrezer. Increasing the sugar would also help keep it somewhat softer but I think I’d double the amount of limoncello next time to really improve the scoobability (that’s a new word!) and the texture, too.

Here’s the recipe I used:

Meyer Lemon Sorbet

2 cups Meyer lemon juice

Zest from 2 Meyer lemons

1 cup water

2 Tbsp limoncello

7/8 cup of sugar (a "light" cup)

If the lemons have been waxed, remove the wax by scrubbing under warm running water and then drying with a rough towel or by briefly blanching the lemons in boiling water (for no more than one minute) and then drying them with a rough towel.

Add the sugar to the water in a small saucepan, bring to a boil and boil for 2 minutes to ensure the sugar is completely dissolved and incorporated into the water.

Remove from the heat and add the zest (it’s best if you can zest the fruit right over the pan so the oils that are released while zesting fall into the pan). Cool to room temperature and then pour into a bowl or storage container. Add the juice and the limoncello. Cool in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. The mixture should be very cold.

Using an electric ice-cream maker, frreze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Super Roll on the way to Super Bowl

28-Jan-2010

I admit that in many ways – okay, maybe in all ways – I’ve been a pretty slow adopter of social media. Which is a little odd considering that at times in my professional life (the job I get paid to do…) I’ve often been responsible for online communities and I always loved that part of my work. Additionally, for several years I was one of the organizers of a local photography group that has its roots online. Those online connections spilled out into the physical world where friendships were formed, skills improved, and activities of all sorts were planned and carried out. So I’m no stranger to online communities and relationships.

I have no idea what took me so long to jump in but finally I’ve become involved in some of the newer, but by no means new, communities. At first this was to keep my job skills current and to understand how the various social media sites might be used for business purposes. But soon I was sucked in by the glimpses into the lives of, and interactions and discussions with people in my other area of interest, the culinary world. I can follow wineries, restaurants, producers, PR firms and the individuals who are members of this community. I’ve been learning new things, "meeting" new people and sometimes contributing to the discussions.

Last night I had the opportunity to attend a fun event at the house of one of these online connections and met a whole group of talented and interesting chefs, sommeliers and others in the food community. It was fun evening.

The event that brought us together was a promotion by a local company, Isernio’s. Isernio’s makes several varieties of Italian sausage and other related products such as ground meats, chicken burgers and other international-style sausages. They have recently introduced new bulk packaging of their chicken sausage and have engaged local chefs to create recipes featuring the products that would be suitable for a Super Bowl celebration.

Last night I had the pleasure of sampling creations from Chef Dalis Chea of Fresh Bistro and Herban Feast. (I’ve written about Herban Feast’s Sodo Park catering facility in the past.) Chef Dali created two appetizers perfect for any sort of sporting event – or any sort of party, really – although you need to be comfortable with deep-fat frying to create them.

The first dish was sausage-stuffed jalapeño pepper poppers that were breaded, fried and then served with a roasted vegetable sauce. They had a lot of flavor and just a little heat. He used larger, relatively mild jalapeño peppers. Of course, they were perfectly fried. The roasted vegetable sauce he served with them would be great with other meats, too. I think I’d also like to try it as a finishing sauce for omelets.

The second dish was my personal favorite. Chicken sausage was formed into patties, breaded and fried. Once done frying they were tossed with a buffalo wing-style sauce and served with blue cheese dressing. They had all the elements of buffalo wings, were perfectly seasoned and spicy, yet were much easier and not nearly as messy to eat as traditional wings.

I believe the recipes for both will be posted on the Isernio’s blog in the upcoming days so keep checking back! You can find recipes from all the participating chefs in the Super Roll Recipe category on the blog. There are already a couple recipes up there that have caught my interest and I’m looking forward to seeing more of them.

Haiti Relief Effort. Theo bars to support CARE

21-Jan-2010

Direct from an Email from the folks at Theo Chocolate:

Haiti Relief Effort. Theo bars to support CARE.

Effective immediately we are donating 100% of the sale of our Classic Milk and Classic Dark bars to CARE, for the relief effort in Haiti. "At Theo we are deeply saddened by the human suffering caused by the earthquake in Haiti, and we understand that all life on our planet is interconnected. The people of Haiti need our help NOW! Please join us!" Joe Whinney, Founder Theo

100% of the purchase price of our 45% Classic milk and 70% Classic dark chocolate bars will go to CARE, a humanitarian nonprofit with more than 50 years of experience in Haiti, providing relief services to help save lives. You can purchase these bars on our website www.theochocolate.com or at our factory store.

*Our coffee partner Caffé Vita will begin selling the Haiti Fund bars on Thursday Jan. 21st in all six café locations in Seattle/Olympia.