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Oregon – Day 2 Itinerary & Travel

21-Apr-2005

Hard to believe that I’m just starting Day 2!  One of the fun things about keeping a blog or diary of some sort is that you realize how much you really do!  And months/years later you can look back and remember in a way that would be impossible by just relying on memory alone. 

As I mentioned in the Day 1 entry it rained and stormed most of Friday night and into Saturday morning.  My plan had been to spend some time walking on the beach on Saturday but it was just too stormy – even for me.  I packed up the car, turned in my yurt key and grabbed a cup of tea at the Nye Beach Café

Then I hit the road for Corvallis.  The road between Newport and Corvallis (Hwy 20) is one of those great windy roads that follows the curves of little creeks and rivers that dot the area.  You cross through farmland, go over the Coast Range and back down into the Willamette Valley.  When there is a ton of traffic it can be frustrating but on this morning I pretty much had the road to myself. 

I got into Corvallis about 9:30 and went straight to the Oregon State (OSU) campus.  At that time on a Saturday morning it was very, very quiet.  :-)  OSU has a really beautiful campus.  At this time of year much of it is in bloom.  It’s filled with cherry and plum trees, and tons of rhododendrons and azaleas.  I circled past all my old buildings and took some time to walk around the Memorial Union and the Quad.  As would be expected many things have changed since I went to school there but many things seem exactly the same.  I spent a little time in the bookstore and picked up some things like the lovely Beaver Mug seen in the photo. :-)

I then toured around town.  When I was in school, Corvallis had a population of about 40,000 (it’s now about 50,000).  With the number of undergraduates at OSU at 20,000 you can understand why everything in town revolved around the university.  It still does although there are now some large companies, like Hewlett-Packard, with facilities in the area.  "Downtown" is still about the same size but I couldn’t find many of the landmarks I remembered.  I was specifically looking for a bakery where, for a year, I baked pies and bread for retail sale and to supply the attached restaurant. 

I did however come across two places that brought back memories.  One is The Beanery on the edge of campus.  This was my first "real" coffee shop experience.  I notice that they now are a chain with several locations.  The second place was a pub called Murphy’s.  It was on the edge of town, not normally a student hangout, but we bought kegs there as they had great prices. I was once left there as "collateral" when we realized no one had brought a check for the deposit on the keg.  Not wanting to mess up the party, I volunteered to stay at the pub until someone could come back with a check. Which thankfully, they actually did! :-)   As I was leaving town I drove by it and noticed it is now "Murphy’s Family Dining".  :-) 

Next I headed south back on 99W making my way to Junction City.  This was several miles of farmland and lots of baby things: calves, sheep, horses.  Also, tons of hawks circling and swooping.  I got to my sister’s, greeted her family and my Dad, who’d come down the night before.  We had a little lunch and then set out for a couple more wineries.  We visited:

Next stop – back to the house where we sampled some of our purchases outside on the front patio and had a great dinner my sister prepared, including steak and shrimp kabobs, a unique potato salad and blueberry pie with ice cream!

Oregon – Day 1 Itinerary & Travel
Oregon – Day 3 Itinerary & Travel

Oregon – Szabo’s Steakhouse & Seafood

20-Apr-2005

Friday night I arrived in Newport, Oregon with a couple of goals in mind:  get into a yurt and grab a bite to eat while watching the Mariners’ game.  While waiting to see if I was going to accomplish the first goal I took a quick look around town to find a place to take care of the second.  I noticed a nice, big sign advertising "60 MLB Games each Week!" on this one place and decided it looked like the type of place that I was looking for – a bordering on dive, sports bar!  It was called Szabo’s Steakhouse & Seafood.  The name sounded fancy but the building was one of those nice, weathered coast sort of places. 

I entered and was a little worried.  The bar looked right – a group of regulars were gathered at one end, drinking Bud on draft and watching various TVs while chewing the fat – but the booths looked almost too nice!  :-)  I decided it would do and found a seat near a large TV with the Mariners – Sox game

I ordered a Diet Coke (I’d had enough wine for the day!) and checked out the game while perusing the menu.  I ordered a cheeseburger and substituted salad for fries.  (Trying to make up for earlier indulgences!)   All the servers were very friendly, although I was a little absorbed in the game (M’s were down, dang it!).  I tried to read what was on the back of their shirts – it was a definition for Szabo.  Something about "Hungarian for family…" but the definition was too long and I couldn’t get to the rest of it. 

My burger arrived and it was the perfect bar burger!  A toasty bun, "special sauce", lettuce, onions, a slice of green tomato (the only bad part), a big slice of Tillamook Medium Cheddar cheese melted on a medium hamburger patty.  The salad was another story – what was I thinking??  I’m sure the fries would have been great. :-) 

I finished up and as I was leaving (I was on the early side for a Friday night) the place was starting to fill, mostly with locals, it seemed.  I think it’s the kind of place where most of the customers are regulars.  The kind of place you feel at home. 

Szabo’s Steakhouse & Seafood
5188 Lucky Gap St
Newport, OR 97365
541-574-0100

A little break in the program ~

20-Apr-2005

It’s about 60F at my house.  The sky is clear with only a few wispy clouds in the east.  Flowers are blooming; most notably my lilacs are at the peak of their splendor.  There is just an occasional slight breeze that moves the lilac perfumed air.  I’m on the deck drinking a big mug of my favorite Darjeeling tea.  The "boys", my cats Butch and Spike, are sleeping at my feet.  Hummingbirds are buzzing in and out sipping from the feeder on the edge of the deck. Life is so good!

Oregon – Dundee Bistro

20-Apr-2005

After all my wine tasting on Friday I needed a little bite to eat before making my way to the coast.  In the heart of Dundee is a place called the Dundee Bistro, which I had read about some time ago.  The Bistro is owned by the Ponzi family and shares a building with the Ponzi Tasting Room and Wine Bar

The bistro is cozy and airy, at the same time.  Booths line the windows in the main room, while tables surround the fireplace.  I settled in at the dining bar surrounding the kitchen, looked over the small but creative and inspiring menu and ordered. 

I started with a cup of their Spring Onion Soup.  This soup was delicate with a fresh onion taste!  A little bit sweet and complimented by the dabble of crème fraiche covered with fresh chives.  Although the soup looks a little creamy it was thin and light – a great way to start a meal. 

I also ordered a glass of Broadley 2002 Pinot Noir.  This was another winery I was not familiar with but boy did I pick a winner.  Luscious and deep; sophisticated.  I asked my server, Katie if the winery was local.  She pulled the bottle back out and we looked at the label, noting that the winery was in Monroe – a city I would just happen to be going through on Saturday!  This actually struck me as a little bit odd though, as there are no other wineries in that area.  Katie (I love people like this) took it upon herself to do a little research for me.  She asked her manager for more information and her manager got online, found the winery website, and printed off several pages for me.  It turns out this is a small winery with limited production, it is in Monroe, but the tasting room is open by appointment only and, according to the website, they are sold out of most current vintages.  Oh well. 

Next up was Duck Pate.  I started to dig in and then remembered I should take a photo, so it was prettier when it first arrived at my table! :-) I remember reading in Soul of a Chef, about how for a terrine you are judged not just on taste but on how consistent your slices are.  These were perfect!  And the pate tasted wonderful, too.  Smooth and the perfect liver taste.  I love when I get to assemble my food in different ways and you can see by this platter that I had lots of options!  Unfortunately, by the time I’d finished there was no room for dessert! :-(

I enjoyed my meal here so much that I decided I would stop back in on Sunday to try a few more menu items. 

Unfortunately on Sunday I didn’t even think to take one picture – except of my leftovers when I got home!  Dang it!  The soup had changed to Carrot Habanera.  This sounded really interesting and the soup on Friday was so good that’s where I decided to start.  I also ordered a glass of the 2002 St. Innocent Pinot Blanc Freedom Hill.

The soup was beautiful – a pale orange color, creamy with some thin, thin slices of grilled carrot and topped with a little cilantro and grated Parmesan.  The soup was so flavorful, although if I hadn’t known it was carrot I’m not sure I would have guessed that was the main ingredient.  There was just a slight burn from the habanera; it had a wonderful warming affect.  The crispy, clean taste of the Pinot Blanc was the perfect foil to the soup. 

I could have (and probably should have) stopped there but I’d already placed my order for a Smoked Chicken Pizza.  The pizza was topped with a light layer of tomato sauce, fingerling potatoes and ricotta cheese. 

The crusty was perfectly crisp without being burned, the chicken was lightly smoked and the fingerlings provided a wonderful contrasting texture.  At least when the pizza was warm.  When I had cold leftovers they were a little solid, I guess is the best way to describe them.  Still tasty, just a bit to bite through. 

On Sunday I arrived at a time that was not too busy, so I had a chance to talk to the sous chefs behind the dining bar.  We talked about the food and about Sub Rosa! I had not yet seen this article, and so in the course of various conversations on Friday and Sunday I’d asked people about it.  Most replied very quickly that it was just a virtual place.  Maybe they replied a little too quickly… or so I thought.  But after talking to the guys at the Dundee Bistro I got the real scoop and I knew they were telling the truth since a couple of them were sort of disappointed with the whole thing.  They had been planning their own little underground adventure and now feel like everyone will just think they got the idea from this site and all the publicity it’s generated. 

Anyway, if you are ever in the area I highly recommend the Dundee Bistro.  The food is good, the people are great and it’s a fun place to stop for a break in your wine tasting or on your travels from Portland to the coast. 

The Dundee Bistro
100-A SW Seventh Street (right on the main highway)
Dundee, OR 97115
Phone: 503.554.1650
Email: info@dundeebistro.com
 

Sokol Blosser Winery

19-Apr-2005

My last winery stop on Friday was at the Sokol Blosser Winery

I was interested in checking out this winery, as the only wine I had tasted was their Evolution, a white blend of nine grapes.

When I arrived I was the only one in the tasting room.  The two women behind the tasting bar were searching for a lost key but quickly greeted me and one set about pouring – as I am writing this I don’t know if they ever found the key or not! :-)

I really didn’t know much about this winery and actually find that I still don’t!  My conversation with the tasting room staff was really about the wines, the weather and other topics of local interest.  I know that the vineyards were planted in the 70s but I’m not sure what year they first released.  I think that they really came into their own when they released Evolution and this year will be their 9th release of that wine.  I liked this winery because it seemed friendly with no hint of pretentiousness.  In fact, while I was there another group came in.  The son was from Portland and his parents had flown in from Indiana, as they were having their purchases boxed for a plane ride.  They had brought along a picnic but with the rain coming and going at will, eating outside was not really feasible – too bad because they had a great deck!  So they found a little corner in the tasting room (with the staff blessing) and sat down for their little feast.  I think the dad was worried about me – he kept offering me food! :-)

Sokol Blosser wines are often found on various recommendation lists and score well in tastings.  I purchased five bottles of wine here but they gave me the 10% six-bottle discount and gave me a free logo glass, which you normally get with a glass of wine purchase.  And I didn’t even ask for anything! With that said, let’s get to the wines!

Sokol Blosser 2002 Pinot Gris:  I was pleasantly surprised with this wine.  I’m not sure why but I expected it to be too sweet but it was quite crisp with apple and citrus.  It left just a hint of flavor in the mouth. It actually reminded me of some of the Sauvignon Blanc out of British Columbia at first taste. I bit grassy. Again, this wine makes me look forward to the summer, sitting on the deck and sipping a chilled glass!

Sokol Blosser Evolution, 8th Edition:  This wine was originally called Evolution #9 but I imagine that name became confusing when they started adding the edition and so they dropped the #9.  It is a blend of nine white grapes: Riesling; Pinot Gris; Semillon; Muller-Thurgau; Gewürztraminer; Muscat; Pinot Blanc; Chardonnay; and Sylvaner.  It’s sort of the mutt of white wines!  The label asks, "Luck?, Intention?"  representing the question people often ask, "Was this just a lucky blend of leftovers or was this a planned blend?".  I’m not sure we will ever know the answer but I do believe this wine has gotten better over time. 

It does change a bit from year to year and I found this year’s release to be a bit drier than I had remembered.  I think one of the reasons this wine has been so popular is that it is very approachable and goes with a wide range of foods.  It is still just a little on the sweet side for my personal taste but I wouldn’t be disappointed if someone presented me with a bottle.  This wine would be great with spicy food and I certainly make my fair share of that!  I did not purchase a bottle for myself but brought one to my sister, as I thought she would enjoy it. 

I’m guessing that this next year’s release might be especially good.  They are making quite a production of the 9th release (9 grapes/9th release) and with the planned publicity I’m sure they will want this wine to really shine. 

Sokol Blosser 2003 Pinot Noir Rose:  I had just a quick sip of this wine as I found it to be too sweet.  I have been searching for good local Roses in the French style and can’t find as many as I think there should be! 

Sokol Blosser 2000 and 2001 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir:  I enjoyed both of these and don’t remember exactly why but I chose the 2000 to purchase.  I think that the 2001 was still just a bit rough around the edges. 

Sokol Blosser 2001 Old Vineyard Pinot Noir:  We had quite a discussion about "old vine" as I had just read recently that to call something old vine it didn’t need to be as old as I thought it should be. :-)  But that’s just me!  And I found it interesting that they call this old "vineyard" not old "vine".  Anyway, no matter what your opinion on the whole topic they are very upfront with what they mean.  The label says the exact number of years which is somewhere in the 35 year range – I can’t remember for sure so I won’t quote it.  The wine was good but I’m not sure it was $50 good. 

Sokol Blosser Meditrina:  Evolution has been so popular that its fans began asking for a red blend, too.  From this request came Meditrina, a blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel.  Meditrina is the Roman Goddess of Wine and Health, or at least that’s what they say!   I think it’s the perfect name for this wine.  The first impression is of an explosion of berries in the mouth!  Lush, lush berries.  They describe the flavor as Marionberry – perfect!  Marionberries were actually developed in Oregon at Oregon State University (OSU) in 1956.  There are various viewpoints of what actually went into the final version but I like the OSU story (bottom of the page).   They are a cross between two types of loganberry and loganberries are a cross between a raspberry and a blackberry.  They are called Marionberries because OSU is in Marion County.  This is a very fruity wine but not cloying with the Zinfandel bringing some tannin to the mix. 

Dagoba Chocolate Bars:  Not long ago I heard about Dagoba Chocolates and they were on my list of places to visit in Portland.  Well, imagine my delight when I noticed a case of chocolate bars on the Sokol Blosser wine tasting bar!  And even more delightful two of the bars were made specifically for Sokol Blosser!  One was the Meditrina, dark chocolate, dried raspberries and rosehips.  We enjoyed some of this chocolate with the bottle of Meditrina we opened at my sister’s house.  Yum! 

Another I picked up is The Noir Bar, made to complement the Pinot Noirs. It is just dark chocolate.  And then I couldn’t miss trying: the Mon Cheri – dark chocolate, sun-dried cherries and cranberries and vanilla; and the Lavender – dark chocolate, blueberries and lavender! 

Next stop:  The Dundee Bistro

Argyle Vineyards

19-Apr-2005

Argyle came to the scene quite a bit later than Erath but once they started producing they definitely have made their mark on the Oregon wine scene! 

Argyle was the first producer in the area to make a sparkling wine (at least that I am aware of).  And their sparkling wines, as well as their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have consistently scored highly over the years. 

They are conveniently located right on the highway in the center of "downtown" Dundee.  This has made their tasting room very popular, although this was my first visit.  When I’ve tried to visit in the past the tasting room was not open. 

On Friday they were offering two flights to taste.  The Red, White and Bubbly (four or five wines from all the varieties) was a $5 charge and the other (all sparkling) a $4 charge.  However, there was some construction going on (they are expanding the tasting room) at the time so they were offering all tastes on a complimentary basis as a "thank you" for dealing with the noise.

Again I tried to limit my tasting mostly to the Pinots, although in this case it would include a sparkling Rose!  I’ve enjoyed the Argyle Brut for several years.  I think of it as a crispier, lighter bodied sparkling wine.  Clean and light – not necessarily in flavor but in how it feels in the mouth.  I like that it never overpowers the food, just complements it in an effervescent manner. 

Argyle 1999 Rose (Sparkling):  I really liked this wine!  It’s much more complex than the Bruts I’ve had in the past. It has a solid feel to it, lots of strawberry up front with a little spiciness to it.  I’ll need to drink it to more completely describe it but I think it’s going to work in a number of situations and it’s very pretty.  This may be the wine I use for the next WBW, for the "pink" theme, which Sam has chosen. 

Argyle 2003 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir:  I honestly don’t remember anything specific about this wine.  It was okay, I know that, but not good enough to justify the $20 price, in my opinion. 

Argyle 2002 Nuthouse Pinot Noir:  This is a really lovely wine!  I first tried Nuthouse about five years ago and have had the pleasure of drinking several of the vintages since.  It’s an earthy wine that makes you want to chew it.  There’s quite a lot of tannin and the wine sits in your mouth long after you finish it.  I chose not to buy it this time but only because it’s available in the Seattle market but the next wine is not, so I purchased it instead. 

Argyle 2002 Clubhouse Pinot Noir:  This wine is first available only to the Argyle Club members.  If not all of it is purchased then it is made available to the public at the tasting room.  This wine was not as big or dominant as the Nuthouse but it seemed to be keeping some secrets!  I think that in two or three years it will reveal it’s true complexity.  At least that’s what I hoped when I bought a bottle!

Next stop:  Sokol Blossor Winery

Erath Vineyards

18-Apr-2005

Erath is the very first winery I ever visited in this area.  I was first here in either the very late 70s or early 80s.  (I can hear you now…"I wasn’t even born then!".  Yeah, yeah, let’s just move on…) At that time there were probably a dozen or so wineries in the area – maybe there were more but they were still working incognito. 

The "tasting rooms" were often in sheds or an area in the winery where they’d put a few boards across a couple of barrels for a makeshift table.  These rooms were normally staffed by the owner or winemaker themselves, tasting hours were limited to a few hours each weekend, and sometimes there was only one wine to taste.  There were no commercial tasting rooms back then, no nice little road signs telling you where to turn (like there are now) and if you wanted to taste the wine you’d make the trip out the windy, often gravel, roads to the source – normally placed strategically on the top of a hill overlooking acres of vineyards. On a good day you could hit three wineries – between the limited hours and the distance between the wineries it was nearly impossible to do any more.   

Dick Erath was one of the original winemakers in the area. I met Dick that first time at the winery and, as an extreme wine novice, was pleased that he spent so much time with my husband and me (former husband to be exact) educating us about his wine (I believe all Pinot Noir at that time), the area and why he thought it would be a great wine region.  I learned a lot from him and his enthusiasm was contagious.  Long before Sideways, I became a Pinot Noir geek, although I hope not as pathetic as Miles (Paul Giammiti)!

I visited this winery several times in the 80s and I know I was there in 1988, but don’t believe I’ve been back since then. I moved to Washington in 1981 and for many years have focused on visiting Washington wineries, although I’m still actively drinking and trying Oregon wines.  For years trips to Oregon were filled with family obligations (either mine or my former husband’s) and we just got away from visiting the wineries. 

Erath was actually called Knudsen-Erath at the time I first visited.  It changed several years ago but I’d never heard the story why that happened until this weekend.  Apparently some law was passed in Oregon about how winery ownership could be structured.  The Knudsen-Erath partnership didn’t qualify and had to be split up.  Knundsen took the vineyards, Erath the winery but bought the Knudsen grapes.  Then there was some sort of disagreement or maybe just a change in agreement and Knudsen started selling his grapes elsewhere.  I swear that at the time this happened I could tell!  Although at the time I didn’t know why the wine tasted different and assumed it was my poor recognition or maybe a change in their blend.  The Knudsen grapes are now sold to Argyle winery, another winery I stopped at later this day.  

Oregon Pinot Noir has never been cheap but over the years I have seen a disturbing trend of climbing prices.  I mean significantly increasing prices.  I think that it’s too bad as it puts so many of them out of the price range for many consumers – me included!  And the value isn’t always there.  It’s one of those things where the wineries try to recoup their costs to produce the wine, whether or not the quality of the wine commands the price they are asking. 

What I’ve seen at Erath over the years is that the wine that used to be their basic bottling has now moved to a reserve bottling and they’ve added several single vineyard releases at premium prices  What is now the basic bottling is still decent, just not what it used to be.  Having said that, they are still one of the best valued wines in this market. 

Besides Pinot Noir they have also added Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc to their line.  And they’ve also added a Dry Riesling and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Cabernet is being discontinued after this release due to the fact that the growing season in the Willamette Valley just isn’t long enough, except in exceptionally good years. 

Since I had several wineries to visit and many more miles to drive, I tried to keep my tasting focused on the Pinots.  Tasting notes will be more detailed when I actually drink these wines.  During most of my tastings I was either the only one or one of very few in the room and so instead of taking detailed notes I focused on conversations with the tasting room staff. 

They charge $5 to taste the base line of wines with an additional charge for the premiums.  Although on this day the woman told me she’d let me try them all for the $5.  However, she didn’t charge me at all when she rang up my wine purchases.  The tasting room also sells quite a lot of wine merchandise – it’s now about ten times as large as that first tasting room I visited!

Erath 2003 Pinot Blanc:  Very crisp and clean!  Refreshing.  Looking forward to drinking this on a hot summer’s day or perhaps with shellfish or maybe eating shellfish on a hot summer day!  

Erath 2003 Pinot Gris:  This wine has great body!  It fills your mouth with citrus and a bit of floral but is still crisp.  Good aftertaste.  Another wine I’ll look forward to having with shellfish. 

Erath 2003 Oregon Pinot Noir:  A little on the light side but still a very pleasant wine and a good value for the price.  Some fruit.  I think it may develop a bit more character in a couple years. 

Erath 2002 Leland and Prince Hill Pinot Noirs:  These were both yummy, chewy Pinot Noirs!  I liked both of these single vineyard releases but opted to purchase the 30th Anniversary release instead. 

Erath 2000 Pinot Noir Reserve 30th Anniversary:  Elegant, smooth, deep plum, makes me very happy!  They say to hold it but I’m not sure I can wait!

Next stop:  Argyle Winery

Oregon – Day 1 Itinerary & Travel

18-Apr-2005

I know that this is supposed to be a culinary blog but I hope you will excuse me if some of the posts over the next few days stray a bit from that.  Although this recent Oregon trip was focused on wine tasting, as well as family events, there may be a few trips down memory lane… :-)

Friday morning broke gray and dreary.  The rain was still holding off but I could tell that it was about to pour at any moment.  Better get the car packed and get out the door!  I’m not sure why but it seemed to take forever to get the car loaded and get on the road.  It was mainly stupid stuff – I couldn’t find something I wanted (it was right where it was supposed to be but not exactly where it normally is), I got tied up answering a couple emails (why did I turn that dang PC on??), some news story caught my attention and I watched it instead of making packing progress.  Dumb stuff. 

And I was excited to be on the road!  For the last several years all of my Oregon trips have been a straight line to and from my parent’s house.  My focus was on spending time with my Mom and doing anything that was not directly related to that just seemed frivolous.  This was my first trip down since she passed away. I was going down to celebrate my Dad’s birthday at my sister’s house in Junction City just outside of Eugene, home of my archrival, the Ducks.  Straight through, with good traffic (and if you leave early (-:) it’s about 5 1/2 hours. 

I decided to take a little extra time on this trip and visit some of the places I love.  I would head south through Portland (Portland itself will have to wait for another trip) and then cut off the freeway onto Hwy. 99W.  Once on Hwy 99 I’d head through Newberg to Dundee.  Dundee is the heart of Oregon wine country, specifically pinot country.  After spending some time tasting I’d continue on to the Oregon Coast and spend the evening and Saturday morning replenishing my soul – that’s what the Pacific Ocean does for me! :-)

I finally was on the road about 9:00.  I know this will seem early for many of you but for me it’s on the late side.  I had planned to be out of the house around 7:30.  (R and I have a running joke.  She’ll mention how busy or congested something was.  I’ll answer how I didn’t have that experience at all!  And then say, I just got an early start… R says it’s my answer for everything!) The first three hours were the normal I-5 trip.  By now the rain was coming down and more water was coming up off the roadway than was coming out of the sky.  But I didn’t care – I was on my way to a little adventure. 

I exited at Tigard (Oregon has lots of strange town names.  Many of them are Native American names – Willamette; some are from French explorers – Champoeg; some were brought by settlers from other places – Albany; some are family names – Brownsville; and some are just names – Crow.) and started heading west.  Tigard is now part of the Portland sprawl.  I negotiated my way through several miles of strip malls and new housing developments; stoplights and bumper to bumper traffic, before breaking free and getting out to the "country". 

But once past the mess my soul breathes a sigh of relief and recognition.  The Willamette Valley is a beautiful valley stretching from the Coast Range on the west side clear to the foothills of the Cascades on the east side.  Salem, my hometown, is part of this valley.  The valley is extremely fertile and many types of crops grow along it’s 120 mile length.  This is one of the reasons I identify so strongly with food, I think.  My first few jobs were all part of the agriculture industry in the area.  The river itself flows south to north  – something very few rivers in the US do.  I thought I read somewhere that there are only three but I might have made that up. :-)

I take in the view, breathe the fresh air and make my way to Dundee.  I did tasting at three wineries – each will have their own entry: 

I had lunch at a great little place, The Dundee Bistro, owned and operated by Ponzi Vineyards.  More info in it’s own entry. 

After tasting and eating lunch it was time for me to head to the coast and what I hoped would be a fun and unique lodging situation! 

I continued southwest on Hwy 99W until I reached McMinnville.  At McMinnville I took Hwy 18 out to the coast.  Technically you are at the coast at Road’s End but I never feel I’m really there until I get to Lincoln City.  Normally, I’d pull over as soon as I saw the ocean and take it all in.  Since I was running a little later than expected (I did not make up my 1 1/2 hour morning delay) and since it was still raining I just kept heading south to my destination. 

I actually had a couple of potential destinations in mind.  You see, quite some time ago Oregon starting adding yurts to many of the state campgrounds.  The reservation website had been showing availability but I didn’t quite believe it. I had heard that the yurts were nearly always booked.  So I was crossing my fingers that one would be available at one of three campsites in the area around Newport

What is a yurt?  It’s sort of a permanent tent.  The yurts in the Oregon parks are (I think) 16′ in diameter.  They have a platform floor, a heater, electricity (a couple of lights and several outlets).  The frame is made of lattice running between  2" x 3" wood supports.  The roof uses the same supports and is an inverted cone.  At the center of the cone is a skylight that can be opened for ventilation.  There are also "windows" in the yurt walls – areas where outer flaps can be opened to allow light and air in through mesh screens – like tent windows.  There is a door that can be locked.  In the Oregon yurts standard equipment includes: one futon with vinyl covered mattress and coffee table; a bunkbed with double bed below and single bed above, both with vinyl covered mattresses; a card-table-sized wooden table with two chairs; lots of clothing hooks; a "vanity" with mirror and narrow shelf; outdoor chairs; a picnic table and built in bench on the covered deck; and additional picnic table in the grassy area surrounding the yurt.  They say they sleep five, but you know they mean five children. :-)

My photo at the top of the entry was taken at 7:30 am in the middle of a torrential downpour! :-(  So you can understand why it isn’t quite as sharp as I would have liked.  Besides the poor conditions I took it from my car – I wasn’t standing in that rain! And even with that you can see all the drops on the lens!  For a better idea of what they look like, check out the park photos

I did end up staying in a yurt but only because I found a way to work the system.  They were completely booked at the campgrounds I checked out.  I’m sorry I can’t tell you what I did because I may need this to work again and if too many people know the deal I’ll be out of luck! 

While waiting for my yurt to be ready I took a quick jaunt into Newport for a bite of dinner and to try to catch part of the Mariners’ game.  I just wanted a dive bar where I could get a decent burger and ended up at Szabo’s.

After dinner I made my way back to South Beach campground, moved into my yurt and settled in for an amazing and cozy evening.  I read and made notes about the day’s adventures while it stormed outside.  I could hear the rain and wind but I was as cozy as a bug in a rug!  My only complaint is that during the night when the rain was super heavy, it was really loud in the yurt.  The canvas is stretched so tightly it’s like a drum, so the sound of the rain is amplified inside.  If it wasn’t for that, this would have been a really perfect experience!  Even with that I slept well – the kind of sleep you have when you are perfectly relaxed and have been breathing lots of fresh air!

Oregon – Day 2 Itinerary & Travel
Oregon – Day 3 Itinerary & Travel

A Little Update…

17-Apr-2005

It’s been a little quiet on the old blog for the last few days!  I hope you missed me! :-)  Well, I just got back from a three day, 775 mile little road trip!  It was great!  The original purpose of the trip was to celebrate my Dad’s birthday at my sister’s house outside of Eugene.  I decided to make a little more out of it than just a pedal-to-the-metal shot down I-5.

I visited a bunch of wineries, ate at a few places, sidetracked to the Oregon Coast (because I can never get enough of it) and through Corvallis to visit my alma mater.  Along the way I met a ton of great people and looked into all the mystery of Sub Rosa.  :-) 

Over the next few days I’ll be posting info about the trip – especially the wines/wineries.  I was in the heart of Oregon Pinot Country and my how it has grown! I’ll give you my take on the whole thing starting tomorrow!  Right now I have to unpack and fun stuff like that…

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15-Apr-2005