Chef in da House with Chef Big John
Friday night I attended a small dinner/wine tasting that has been dubbed "Chef in da House" by the host, David LeClaire. For those of you active in wine tastings and events in the Seattle area, even if you don’t know David the chances are very good that you’ve attended an event he’s organized. If you’ve recently attended the Rose Revival or plan to attend the Pasa Robles tasting next Monday, those are his events.
Periodically he hosts a wine tasting at his home and invites a chef to cook dinner. There is a fee but it basically covers just the cost of the materials. I think this was the second or third version of Chef in da House, and when I noticed the Chef for this evening was Chef Big John Caudill I immediately sent in my reservation!
I used to regularly attend Thursday night wine tastings at Seattle Cellars with my friend, L. During that time we got to know all of the staff at the store. Over time I learned who had tastes similar to mine and came to rely on them for recommendations and information. At that time Big John was working at Seattle Cellars and he was someone I always counted on. Over the years I got to know him and his wife, who also regularly attended, pretty well. In fact, I got to know the whole family as his sister also worked at Seattle Cellars! They’ve been to parties at my house, I’ve been to their parties but a couple years ago they moved east of the mountains and so our interaction has been limited to fortuitous meetings, mostly at wine events.
Seattle Cellars sponsors wine dinners and special events in addition to the Thursday night tastings. In those days they often partnered with The Painted Table, the now closed restaurant that was in the Alexis Hotel. David was the wine director and ran many promotions at the restaurant and that was how I got to know him. Both men have since gone on to other adventures, Big John having graduated from culinary school, now runs his own catering and events company and, as previously mentioned, David has his wine events company. So I was looking forward to this dinner that was also a bit of a blast from the past.
Friday night was a very warm night in Seattle. When I arrived at the house Chef Big John and his wife, Kimberly, were already busy in the hot kitchen and had been for a few hours, having spent the early part of the day shopping at The Market. David was opening chilled white wines to start our tasting. Some of the tastings he does are pretty formal, where he takes you through bottle by bottle, but this was going to be more informal – lots of choices and up to each person to pick what looked good to them and talk to him about it, if they wished. He gave us the ground rules and started pouring.
Since the kitchen was right in the heart of things, this was also an informal cooking class. There were too many of us to watch every step of every process, but people were free to come and go as they desired, spending some time in the kitchen, watching and listening to the ongoing dialog or asking questions about something, helping out if they wished, then wandering out to the living room or deck to sip some wine and cool off.
In the meantime, Big John and Kimberly were working on the first offering, Chevre dipped in Herbs de Provence, then baked on (toasted) crostini until warmed and slightly melted. The mixture of herbs with the cheese was wonderful. The fragrant rosemary and lavender with the tart Chevre was rich, yet not overwhelming. A perfect bite to start the night. They plated up 20+ portions, guests helped get them distributed and everyone was soon happily munching.
Next up was Wilted Greens with Lardon sprinkled with crumbled Goat Cheese. This dish included three types of greens: Frisee; Escarole; and Arugula. Each was prepared separately, as they have different sautéing requirements, and then combined. Both the Frisee and the Escarole were sautéed in the rendered fat from the Lardon. The Arugula was not cooked but was blended in with the first two which provided enough heat to wilt it. The greens were plated, topped with crispy lardon and a little crumbled goat cheese added for good measure. The combination of greens was great and, personally, I am all for warm lardon rendering being used as dressing!
I am sad to say that for the next course I was spending my time cooling off outdoors and so I do not have a single picture of this lovely, lovely plate. :-( But I can tell you how good it was and what was in it! The star was duck, specifically, Confit (cooked in its own fat) of duck leg over Salade Americanes (the French version of Waldorf). Granny Smith apples, toasted walnuts, celeriac and freshly made mayo were combined into a refreshing contrast to the richness of the duck. The celeriac was a nice little surprise in the salad – along with the apples there was a great juicy, crispness in every bite. Now by this time I’m feeling pretty happy but we were not yet done!
Next up was lamb. Lamp chops were trimmed and frenched then marinated in olive oil, rosemary and garlic. Lots of garlic! The racks were pan-roasted, finished in the oven, then cut into individual chops. Also on the plate were: blanched asparagus, that had been oiled and seasoned and then roasted in the oven to warm through; and mushrooms marinated in extremely good olive oil and vinegar, tarragon, salt and pepper and then sautéed until tender. (These can either be served cold or at room temperature.) I loved the tang the vinegar gave to the mushrooms. And the lamb, well it was perfectly cooked and tender.

At the beginning of the evening we had been warned that dessert most likely wasn’t going to turn out as originally planned. On the menu was chocolate pot de creme. With the heat of the day, the heat of the kitchen, the refrigerator full of wine (even the reds were spending a little time in the refrigerator as the temperature was over 80 F that evening…) the proper cooling and setting most likely wouldn’t happen. But we were promised one of the best cold mochas in it’s place! :-) And that’s exactly what we got. Lovely, rich, velvety- smooth, drinkable chocolate. I didn’t hear anyone complaining that we had to sip it from a cup instead of eat it with a spoon!
Throughout the evening guests mingled and met, talked about the wine and the food, helped out when they wanted to, poured wine for each other, sat on the deck, exchanged contact information, and just generally had a great time. It was a fun group of people and I’m sure I’ll be seeing many of them at other events around town.
Both David and Big John are available to help you plan an event of your own, or you can sign up for David’s email newsletter to hear about the latest public events he’s working on.
Chef Big John Caudill
kingcrabclaw@aol.com
Tasting Washington
Wine & Food Excursions
509-949-7022
David LeClaire
winelover99@comcast.net
Wine Events and Promotions
206-526-1992
To sign up for David’s newsletter send him an email
EoMEoTE#7 – The Limerick Edition
It’s End of Month Eggs on Toast,
Created by Jeanne, the talented host
This month a limerick
Will do the trick
To explain your entry and culinary post
What came to mind was a Monte Cristo
But with a twist, ala the Fool’s Bistro
Bread, eggs, chicken and cheese
Add something savory, to please –
Stack ‘em up on the grill, then eat the little feast-o.
Don’t worry! I really don’t plan on subjecting you to my (extremely) limited poetry skills any more than necessary! But today it was necessary… Several month’s ago Jeanne at Cook Sister! started another food blogging event titled, “End of Month Eggs on Toast Extravaganza” or, as it is affectionately known, EoMEoTE.
I stumbled across this event two or three months ago but haven’t been coordinated enough to participate. It seemed this holiday weekend (in the US) was a good time to get involved. “But why the limerick?”, you ask. Well, that’s the rule for this month – not just an entry involving eggs and toast (or a starchy carbohydrate of some kind) but a limerick to boot!
As my little rhyme indicates I had been thinking something along the lines of but not exactly a Monte Cristo sandwich. I love Monte Cristos but I didn’t want to do all the crust trimming and wrapping and chilling that makes a good one. Plus, I wanted to be able to use some of the things I had in the fridge – many from Saturday’s trip to the Farmers’ Market. So I came up with a plan that is actually more like eggs in toast but I think it will still qualify! :-)
The Fool’s Monte Cristo
1 egg
1 – 2 Tbsp milk
Freshly grated nutmeg
Break egg into shallow bowl, just wide enough to lay a piece of bread completely flat. Lightly beat the egg, then add the milk and grate a little nutmeg into the mixture. Mix. Set aside.
8 thin slices of day-old coarse white bread (I used a small loaf, each sandwich is only about 6 bites)
Thinly sliced Rosemary Romao Cheese
Thinly sliced Swiss Cheese
Thinly sliced Provolone Cheese
Thinly sliced grilled chicken (I marinated mine in Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Sauce and then grilled it on the BBQ)
Thick sliced bacon, fried until crispy and cut in half
1 “Green” red onion, thinly sliced (Any young or green onion will do)
1 grilled, seeded and peeled banana pepper, thinly sliced into 1/2 rounds
Lemon basil leaves
1 tsp. butter
Several small sprigs of fresh rosemary
Additional Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Sauce or raspberry jam.
Assemble all ingredients listed above. You should have enough to make one single layer of each ingredient on each of the four sandwiches. Feel free to use just one type of cheese for all three layers, or substitute turkey for the chicken, another herb for the basil – really just pull together whatever sounds good to you. The one key is to ensure you have cheese between each layer of “other” ingredients so that the filling will get all melted together and won’t fall apart.
Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles when dropped into the pan. Melt just enough butter to lightly grease the pan.
Dip each piece of bread into the egg mixture. Turn it over and dip again – you want to make sure that the egg slightly soaks the bread. Place in the pan and repeat with all remaining slices.
When the bread has browned turn over 4 of the pieces. Quickly assemble your sandwich on the browned side of the pieces. Put a layer of the Rosemary Romao, followed by the chicken and lemon basil, followed by the Provolone, followed by some onion, pepper and a slice of bacon, then finish off with a slice of the Swiss cheese. Next, turn the remaining 4 slices of bread onto the top of the stack with the browned side of the bread on the cheese. The uncooked side will be facing out.
If desired, place a piece of foil over the sandwiches and place a heavy object to weigh them down, such as a cast iron frying pan, on top of the foil. (Or just use a panini pan.) When the bread has browned on the bottom, remove the pan and foil and very carefully flip the sandwiches over. This is when they are most vulnerable as the cheese will not be fully melted so they won’t completely stick together. Put the foil and weight back on the sandwiches, until the bottom side has browned.

Remove from pan, place on plates. Garnish plates with a fresh rosemary sprig or two and a bit of jam or sauce. Serve additional jam or sauce on the side. I placed a frilled toothpick in each sandwich but it’s really not necessary, unless your cheese to other ingredient ratio is too low.
Now eat ’em up!
Thai Dragon Pepper
Look at this cute little baby pepper! When it grows up it will be able to knock your socks off but right now it looks so harmless. There’s another one, too. It’s still hidden under the dried bloom just to the right of the first one.
Last year I grew Cayenne peppers and they were amazingly prolific! I liked the name of these Thai Dragons, though, and thought I’d try them this year. With a name like that is there any doubt about how hot they will be? It looks like they are off and running and will produce lots and lots, by the number of blooms I’m seeing. I also have a Banana Pepper plant (mild) and an Anaheim Chili plant (also hot). They are both growing well but are just starting to bloom, so no peppers yet.
Rosemary-Mint Wine Jelly
My entry for IMBB was good but a little sweeter than I wanted and the herbs weren’t quite as assertive as I would have liked. But the idea was good. So this morning I made a few changes and came up with something much more to my liking!
Wine jelly can be used a number of ways – limited pretty much only by your imagination. The most "traditional" way to use it is with a soft cheese on a cracker or baguette. It’s also good as a glaze or accompaniment for meats, or added as a thin layer on a savory tea sandwich.
As I mentioned in the earlier post I have never used a water-bath for jam, but I’ve included the information in case you would like to.
1 1/2 cups firmly packed fresh mint leaves
2 cups fresh rosemary leaves
3 large cloves garlic
2 cups dry white wine
3 cups sugar
a 3-ounce pouch liquid pectin
In a food processor or blender blend together the mint, rosemary, garlic and 1 cup of the wine until the herbs are chopped fine. (You may need to add another dash of wine if the blender bogs down.)
Transfer the mixture to a bowl. In a small saucepan bring the remaining 1 cup wine to a boil, add it to the herb mixture, and let the herb mixture stand, covered, for 45 minutes. (Today I actually let it stand about 3 hours, but I think anything over 45 minutes would be fine.)
Strain the herb mixture through a sieve lined with several layers of rinsed and squeezed cheesecloth set over a large measuring cup. When the liquid has drained through, gather the corners of the cheesecloth together and then twist the resulting ball to extract enough liquid to make 2 cups. If you are a little short add more wine to make 2 cups.
Transfer the liquid to a kettle, stirring in the sugar until combined well, and bring the mixture to a rolling boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Stir in the pectin quickly, bring the mixture again to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly, and boil it, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.
Remove the kettle from the heat, skim off any foam with a large spoon, and ladle the mixture immediately into 4 sterilized 1/2-pint Mason-type jars, filling the jars to within 1/8 inch of the tops. Wipe the rims with a dampened cloth and seal the jars with the lids. Invert the jars for 5 minutes and turn them upright. (Instead of being inverted, the jars may be put in a water bath canner or on a rack set in a deep kettle. Add enough hot water to the canner or kettle to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches and bring it to a boil. Process the jars, covered, for 5 minutes, transfer them with tongs to a rack, and let them cool completely.)
Store the jars in a cool, dark place.
Makes four 1/2-pint jars.
Update May 31: I hate when this happens! I was so excited about the taste coming out right, that I wrote my post before realizing that the changes I made affected the jelling process. Dang it! So this "jelly" turns out more like a thick "syrup". Which might be okay depending on how you plan to use it. I’m currently heating one jar to see how it reduces. It will work, it just takes a little time as you want to use low heat. Alternatively, you could reduce the wine to 1 3/4 cup and I’m sure that would allow it to set up properly, too. So sorry! ~ B
U-District Farmers’ Market
Heaven
Deep scarlet strawberries, warmed by the morning sun. Picked, rinsed, consumed! Sweet. Juicy. Summer in your mouth.
Sorry – no pictures… I just couldn’t wait that long! :-)
Memorial Day Events
Memorial Weekend is almost here! Hard to believe this unofficial start to summer is so close! While making your weekend plans there area a few activities you may want to keep in mind:
Folklife
Folklife offers a plethora of experiences packed into the 3-day weekend: music; food; crafts; people watching. There’s something for everyone! There are downloadable schedules on their site so you can (pretend to) plan your day. I always find it’s best to just go with whatever catches my attention.
NORTHWEST FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL 2005
May 27-30, 11 am-11 pm
Seattle Center · Rain or Shine!
Free
Pike Place Street Fair
Two days of crafts, food and entertainment in Pike Place Market. Held on Sunday and Monday but don’t expect to see the normal vendors. Sometimes they are open but mostly they take a well-deserved couple of days off.
Pike Place Market Street Festival
Sunday – Monday, May 29 – 30, 11 am – 7 pm
between Virginia and Pike St., west of 1st Avenue
Free
Chelan Valley Wine Tasting Festival
I’ve never been to this festival but it looks like a good reason to take a little drive east of the mountains!
Wine Tasting and Festival
May 28th & 29th
Sat: Noon to 6:00pm, Sun: Noon to 5:00 pm
At the Lone Pine Fruit and Espresso Stand
23041 Hwy 97 Orondo, WA
Memorial Weekend in the Wine Country (Willamette Valley)
Many of the Willamette Valley wineries will be open special hours or hosting special events over the weekend. More than 100 wineries are open to the public from 11 AM to 5 PM all three days of the weekend. Many of these wineries are not open at any other time during the year. Festivities include tasting of new releases and older vintages, barrel tastings, specialty foods and sales of limited quantity wines. Some wineries have live music and some charge a tasting fee. Winemakers and owners will personally greet their guests.
For the full list of what is happening when, see the website.








































