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Autumn Omakase, a Tasting Menu from Tatsu Nishino of Nishino

03-Oct-2005
Hillel and the crew at Tasting Menu have released a new cookbook. "Autumn Omakase, a Tasting Menu from Tatsu Nishino of Nishino".   I took a quick look through it this morning and, as with the first book, "All About Apples", which featured Scott Carsberg from Lampreia, the photos are stunning and take you step by step through each recipe.
 
The book is available as a free download – you just need to provide a name and email address.  I encourage you to check it out!
 
 

A Cooking Kind of Day…

02-Oct-2005

 

Earlier today I finally made the risotto I had planned to make for last week’s brunch. (You’re right – that is not a picture of risotto at the top of the page!)  I used a recipe in Mario Batali’s new cookbook, "Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home" , Risotto con Zucca or Risotto with Squash, in this case Acorn Squash. 

 
As you probably know risotto takes a bit of time and while it’s cooking it needs to be stirred constantly.  As I was sitting there stirring and adding broth little by little, I was thinking how nice it was to be inside cooking on such a day.  It was raining and had been for hours; the dishwasher was humming; and, although I couldn’t really hear it, I was also doing wash so the washer and dryer were somewhere in the background noise.  I had a new CD, Children of the Revolution’s, "Liberation" playing – they had been the opening act for Pink Martini at one of the Ste. Michelle concerts I’d been to this summer and I really like them.  The windows were a little steamy from the risotto and the house smelled great!  The whole thing was just so comforting and cozy. 
 
The risotto was really good but I was a little disappointed that I couldn’t actually taste the squash, although it did seem to add an underlying taste or fullness to the taste.  Mario’s recipe calls for cubed squash, as opposed to cooking it, mashing it and then adding it to the risotto as many other recipes do.  By the time you are done cooking the risotto, though, the squash as been completely incorporated – you can’t really see it.  I still managed to eat a giant bowl of it and the best part is that there are enough leftovers for two or three more meals! 
 
Once I get in that cooking mood sometimes I just keep on going.  Right now, I’m making up a batch of marinara, mostly from the San Marzano tomatoes from my yard.  I threw in a few cherry tomatoes, too, to add more sweetness and there are lots of herbs simmering away in the pot.  At about 7:15 pm I went out to pick the herbs and was amazed at how dark it was!  I had to turn all the yard lights on to see what I was doing. 
 
The marinara is not for tonight – I’m still full from the risotto! It needs to simmer for a while and reduce a bit.  I’ll use it over the next few days and it will be even yummier as the flavors have a chance to really meld together. 
 
I guess it’s getting to be that time of year though – time to stay at home, cook up a little love and then settle in to enjoy it.  Maybe read a book by the fire.  And I’m sure there’s a glass of wine or two in there somewhere, too! :-)

Julie & Julia Update

02-Oct-2005
Author Julie Powell, will be reading from her book, "Julie & Julia:  365 Days, 524 Recipes, 1 Tiny Apartment Kitchen", at 7:00 pm Thursday at Third Place Books in Lake Forest Park. 
 
Third Place Books
Lake Forest Park Towne Centre
17171 Bothell Way NE
Lake Forest Park
206-366-3333

Ladies’ Fall Brunch

02-Oct-2005

 

Last Saturday eleven of my friends joined me for a fall brunch.  I try to do these brunches two or three times a year but sometimes a little more time goes by than I am aware of!  The last brunch I did was in April so this one was pretty much right "on time". 
 
When I first started doing a lot of entertaining it seemed I was always still working while the guests were arriving and even throughout the party.  Over the years I’ve become much better at both my planning and menu selection so that I normally am just finishing up a few things at the last minute – things that I want to serve hot, or perhaps something that doesn’t hold well.  
 
Apparently I’ve forgotten all of those lessons though.   This last week I was running around like crazy on Saturday morning!  I’m not sure what happened.  I think partly it was due to trying a few new things that took me longer than expected.  (I may have mentioned before that my friends are very good about allowing me to experiment on them…)  And, for some odd reason, I couldn’t seem to get in to my normal entertaining groove – that place I get where I am so focused that everything just flows. Instead, I kept finding myself distracted by odd thoughts of something that needed to be done and all of a sudden I’d realize that I was wandering around the house instead of being in the kitchen where I belonged!  The outcome was that as guests started arriving I was still in the midst of preparations – and this was after I’d already cut one item from the menu!  Yikes!  Of course, every one was great and took it in stride but it was disappointing to me – I wanted to enjoy the party too!  Which I eventually did. 
 
All week long the weather had been nice (and was supposed to be on Saturday) so I’d set up coffee, champagne and juice out on the deck.  Normally at 10:00 am, the scheduled start time, the deck is covered in sunshine.  Saturday started off a bit foggy and was still rather overcast when everyone arrived but we still made our way to the deck to enjoy being outside while we still can.  (I can hear my guests reading this and saying, "What do you mean enjoyed being outside?? She forced us out there – wouldn’t let us in to the house!)  Well, you know there are two sides to every story – but I know that mine is right! :-) 
 
At about 10:30 everyone moved inside and I finished getting all dishes on the table.  Here was the menu: 
 

Fall Brunch

September 24, 2005

 Assorted Beverages

Crab & Shrimp “Quiche”

Oven Omelet with Vegetables

Tomatoes with Shallots, Basil and Balsamic

Risotto con Zucca

Chicken and Apple Sausage

Roast Pork with Apple Stuffing

Bacon Fritters with Balsamic Onions

Whole Wheat Orange & Cranberry Rolls

 

I’d 86ed the risotto when I realized I’d forgotten to prepare the squash when I was supposed to.  (I must have been wandering around at the time…)  And, since I always have way too much food anyway, I figured it wouldn’t really be missed, although it was already on the menu/placards that were at everyone’s places.  Oh well. 

If you read this blog with any regularity you may notice that the applesauce donuts didn’t make the cut.  I was really torn about that but I wanted to make the Bacon Fritters.  The Orange and Cranberry Rolls are one of those great make-ahead items so I didn’t want to replace them, so the donuts were regulated to "next time". 

Unfortunately I only took a couple photos and they turned out poorly so you can’t really see how good everything looked.  I’ll stick a couple of thumbnails in so you can get an idea.  However, overall I felt like this brunch was really not up to par in many ways.  Even some of the things that I normally count on just didn’t work out as well as they could have.  What’s odd is that I still believe the recipes are good.  I think it was my lack of groove, timing and concentration that impacted it all.  I was a little disappointed with the food but the brunch itself was a lot of fun! 

I have to say that I have really great friends: they are good, friendly and fun people.  These events are always interesting since I bring people from all parts of my life together and normally not everyone knows everyone else.  Over the years they’ve gotten to know each other but each time I introduce one or two new people just to keep everyone on their toes! :-)  And they eat everything I give them with no complaints.  Which actually is not exactly what I’d like but that’s okay. 

I’ll give you the play by play on the food, as I think there are some good ideas here and you may be able to pull them together better than I did!

The Crab-Shrimp Quiche was actually a big hit.  This is something I’ve been making for years!  I received the cookbook as a gift in 1989 and know I made it soon after so that will give you some idea!  I’ve modified it a bit but the basic idea is really good.  And, it’s something that can be mixed together the night prior and then baked in the morning.  Bonus!  I’ll add the recipe below. 

The veggie oven omelet was okay.  It needed a bit more seasoning. This is also something that you can assemble the night before.  However, one thing was not so great.  I’d used crimini mushrooms in it and when they sat overnight they started turning the egg mixture kind of dark.  I mixed it up a bit before placing it in the oven and it wasn’t too noticeable when cooked but next time I’ll stick with white mushrooms unless I’m putting the dish in the oven right away. 

The tomatoes were great!  I used cherry tomatoes and basil from my garden.  With the balsamic dressing they provided a nice sweet-tangy element to the meal. 

The chicken-apple sausage is always a hit.  I use Aidells‘, a really great sausage company out of California.  They have several variates that I really love.   The Roast Pork with Apple Stuffing was one of those things that was okay but I think I could have really done a better job with it.  I used one of Donna Hay’s recipes and changed several things to, what I thought would be, my liking.  First, I was worried that it wouldn’t cook all the way through in the time the recipe suggested but it did.  Since I had allowed extra time, I turned off the oven, covered it with foil but then left it in the oven to keep warm.  Nice thought but I ended up drying it out.  Also, Donna had an actual stuffing in her recipe (with bread crumbs and milk to bind it) but I thought I wanted something I bit chunkier.  I think that idea was okay, but the apples I chose (not sure what variety they were, I had several types I’ve bought from Farmers’ Markets around) stayed too firm and didn’t have great flavor as a cooked apple.  Plus, I had a little challenge getting the exact cut of meat she used (she’s Australian) and that may have affected the whole thing, too.  I liked the idea and it was close so I may need to try again!  It was really beautiful when sliced – which you can almost see, in the very bad photo to the left! :-)

The Bacon Fritters were also one of those things that seemed like they should be better than they actually were. This was another Donna Hay recipe but from a different cookbook. During the party someone asked me what a fritter actually was – these were actually more like a pancake – and I got to thinking that I really don’t know what constitutes a fritter so I’m going to need to check that out.  My idea of a fritter has always been something sort of mounded and normally deep-fried or pan-fried but that’s not what these were – and I know I did them right because they looked just like the picture in the cookbook! :-)   I had leftover batter from these and the next day I tried a couple of experiments and liked the results better than what I’d had the day of the party – so there is still hope.  However, everyone loved the Balsamic Onions that topped the fritters so that was a good note! 

The most disappointing item were the rolls.  This is one of my standard recipes that I’ve used a million times – although this was a variation that I’ve only done a few times.  I like this recipe because you make the dough and form the rolls the night before, then refrigerate them overnight.  In the morning you let them rise in a warm place and then bake them.  So the timing is perfect.  But from early on I knew there was something a bit off with these.  When I rolled them out for shaping they didn’t feel right. In the morning, they really didn’t raise correctly and then I over baked them because they never got to the "hollow" stage.  (When you tap bread that is completely baked it should sound a little hollow.) I guess they couldn’t get hollow because they were just too solid!  We joked about them at breakfast – I dubbed them the "bad rolls" and everyone took to that, asking for the "bad rolls" to be passed.  All but one was eaten however, so I guess the flavor wasn’t too bad, just the form factor. 

Well, my education continues and so far my friends continue to accept my invitations so I guess they are willing to put up with me!  I’ll continue to try to get better but in the meantime, I always have fun having people over!   

 

 
 

 

Crab Quiche

4 eggs
1½ cups sour cream
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup flour
1 tsp. onion powder
¼ tsp. salt
4 drops red pepper sauce
1 can (6.5 oz) crabmeat – I used fresh crab on Saturday but have used canned in the past and it’s okay
4 oz. mushrooms
2 cups shredded Swiss Cheese (about 8 oz)

Mix eggs, sour cream, Parmesan, flour onion powder, salt and pepper sauce in a 4-qt bowl. Beat with hand beater until smooth (either a hand beater or stand mixer works okay). Stir in crabmeat, mushrooms and Swiss cheese. Pour into ungreased 10” pie plate. Cook at 350°F until knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool 5 minutes before serving.

I generally double the recipe and use ½ crab and ½ baby shrimp and then bake in a 9”x13” pan. Allow a bit more time if you double. I sometimes sauté the mushrooms before adding them (the original recipe called for canned…) but didn’t on Saturday. On Saturday I used regular sour cream but have used lowfat or nonfat and that works, too.

Oysters on the Half Shell

01-Oct-2005

 

I’ve been thinking for quite some time that I really needed to learn how to shuck oysters. I can sort of do it okay, but mostly I fumble and crumble (the shells) as I attempt to find the magic spot to place the oyster knife so that it slips between the top and bottom shell and allows you to separate the muscle from the top of the shell, remove it, and then loosen the oyster from the bottom of the shell so that you can easily slurp in the briny, metallic nectar and flesh.   

With that in mind I bought a dozen Kumamotos at the U-Dist Farmers’ Market today.  Taylor Shellfish Farms always has a booth at the market and they bring in the freshest, right-from-the-farm selection.  Elliott’s Oyster House has a really great Frozen Champagne Mignonette that I adore!  I’ve been wanting to figure out how to make it.  Last time I was in, I asked if the chef would share the recipe.  They took my Email address and said he’d send it to me, but I’m still waiting…

I decided I could probably come pretty close on my own.  So I took some red wine vinegar, thinly sliced and chopped one very small shallot, added some freshly ground black pepper, a bit of horseradish and a teensy tiny bit of sugar.  I let that sit while I shucked six oysters. (I’m getting better but need more practice – luckily I still have six to go!)  Then, once the oysters were shucked,  I added a dash of champagne (then poured the rest into my glass).  I used the same mini-champagne I’d taken with me to Friday Harbor in July. 

For this half dozen I used the mignonette as is – I wanted to check the flavor – but then I stuck the rest in the freezer.  In a little while I’ll take a fork and "rake" it, so that I get a kind of sno-cone texture to the ice.  The challenge is to make sure you don’t get too high a percentage of champagne, as the mixture will not freeze at all if there is too much alcohol in the mix. If I was making a larger batch I’d use my ice-cream maker to freeze the mixture but for this little tiny batch the fork method will be just fine.

You may notice that the photo above contains empty shells.  Well, yes this is true.  Once I had them shucked and the mignonette complete I was dying to try them out!  I slurped them all down right there at the counter!  :-)  Time to go check the freezer – I’m getting ready for my final six! 

A Little Birdie Told Me….

29-Sep-2005
That there’s a new cocktail lounge that will be making it’s home in Ballard very soon.  It will be located directly across Ballard Ave from The Matador.   Current plans are to be open November-ish.   More later….

The Lone Survivor

28-Sep-2005
 
 
This morning I pulled all but one of my tomato plants and have sent them off with the city yard waste man to be made into lovely compost for next year.  In case you are not aware, you should never put spent tomato plants in home compost as it won’t get hot enough to kill all the diseases that tomatoes carry and you can easily introduce problems into your garden that way.
 
I had actually already pulled my yellow pear and Green Zebra plants a couple of weeks ago.  The pear just had issues from the beginning and I really should have pulled it much sooner.  The Green Zebra was one of my plants that didn’t perform as expected this year.  So today I pulled two cherry tomato plants and Ceylon, an heirloom variety.  The cherry tomatoes had both produced excellently but over the last few weeks I haven’t been able to keep up with them and most of the tomatoes on the plants had split from just getting too ripe.  Even many of those that still looked intact would split as I picked them.  I managed to harvest several dozen before pulling the plants so I’ll still have tomatoes for some time to come. 
 
My one remaining plant has been doing very nicely.  It is San Marzano, the Italian plum tomato that is the pride of Italy and is prized as a canned tomato. The flesh is solid with few seed so they make great sauce.  In San Marzano, these plants grow in volcanic soil which produces huge, sweet, flavorful tomatoes.  I don’t have volcanic soil, but I was really pleased with this plant last year and again this year.  The size of the tomatoes is pretty amazing.  The one caveat is that they need a long growing season – something we are not known for here in the Pacific Northwest – but they’ve worked well for me the last couple of years.  I pulled many of the leaves and cut branches without fruit so that all the plant’s energy could go toward those last few fruits.  I’m going to leave them on the vine as long as possible, although with our night temperatures dropping I may be forced to harvest them soon.  The nice thing about tomatoes is that as soon as they have started to change color you can actually pick them and they will continue to ripen.  The flavor will not be quite as rich but they will still be 100 times better than tomatoes from the grocery store!  Some years I actually pull the plant with the fruit on it, then hang it upside down in my little storage shed to protect them from the elements.  The tomatoes will continue to pull sustenance from the vines and ripen as though they were still planted!  There have been some years that by doing this I’ve had "garden" tomatoes will into December!
 
Anyway, this definitely means that summer is over.  I was just a little sad as I pulled those plants this morning. 

Julie & Julia

28-Sep-2005
"Julie & Julia", the book that started with Julie Powell’s blog, The Julie/Julia Project, was favorably reviewed in this morning’s Seattle Times
 
If you are not familiar with the blog or project it centered around Julie cooking her way through Julie Child’s, "Mastering the Art of French Cooking", in one year.  The blog documented the trials, tribulations and successes of the year. 
 
Kudos to Julie for completing the project and getting a book deal out of it!  Her book is actually being paired with, "Mastering the Art of French Cooking", on Amazon

Newish Tea Blog

28-Sep-2005
I happened to come across a blog yesterday that is all about tea and tea reviews.  The first one I’ve come across so far.  If you are interested in tea, it would be worth your while to check it out. 
 

Harvest: Thai Dragon Peppers

27-Sep-2005
 I’ve been picking Thai Dragon Peppers all summer.  They really add a nice little bit of heat to just about any sort of dish.  As I’ve had extras I’ve set them aside to dry – you really don’t have to do anything special at all.  Just toss them somewhere where the air can circulate around them. 
 
Now we are in the early days of fall – the days are now shorter than the nights, the temperatures are dropping into the 40s and even 30s at night – the plants are giving their last little push to produce as much as possible. 
 
My pepper plants are no longer setting buds, and are putting all their energy into finishing what they’ve started.  Over the last few weeks the Thai Dragons have been turning red in record numbers! 
 
Every day or two I pick a handful or two, set them on this rack and then forget about them.  In a few weeks I’ll package them up for storage. 
 
All winter they will be there for me – bringing a little summer heat to my winter meals.