NY: Chinatown and Little Italy
08-Nov-2005
Monday morning in New York found me wandering around two neighborhoods that I associate with food. What? You think I associate all neighborhoods with food?? Well, yes that’s true on many levels but in this case it’s even more pronounced.
Unfortunately this was pretty early in the morning so for this visit I would be looking and not partaking – at least not too much. Wandering up and down the blocks of Chinatown I am constantly amazed and intrigued by the types of produce, the amount of it and the number of people buying it. I think that here in Seattle we have a fairly rich Asian culture but still I see things here that I don’t see at home. In addition to the produce there are the fish markets, dried goods and all manner of exotic ingredients that make me want to sample and experiment. Chinatown, for me, is all about ingredients. Sure you can actually eat here, too but I always think of the markets. I love walking through this colorful and inspirational part of town!
Little Italy, on the other hand, is all about the restaurants and sitting on the sidewalk enjoying the show of people passing by. Over the years I’ve had salads and pastas and seafood and chicken or other Parmesans at many of the places. One of my favorites is Il Cortile, a place recommended to me by a transplanted New Yorker who was living in Seattle at the time. What is especially great is that I’m not sure I would have picked it out on my own but on his recommendation I tried it. This was the first place I ever had carpaccio and it now defines what I think great carpaccio should be! One of my favorite memories is of a meal I shared with my friend E here. We ran into each other at the airport – neither one of us knew the other was traveling to NY at that time – and we were on the same flight! Although business would take us in opposite directions soon after we arrived, our first night in town we made our way to Little Italy. It just happened to be the Feast of San Gennaro celebration so we first wandered though the street festival and then made our way to Il Cortile to finish off the evening.
This trip there would be no eating a real meal in Little Italy, so instead I settled for another tradition – cookies and mini cannoli from Ferrara Bakery! I love this place. I guess I have a special affinity for it since my Grandmother was a Ferrara. This is no relation – at least not a close one – but still I imagine there is some connection if I go back far enough. I absolutely love the little butter cookies they make here. Hazelnut plays a large role in their flavoring and many are sandwiched with apricot, raspberry or another jam. Many are dipped or drizzled with chocolate. Looking in the cookie and pastry cases is like looking through a treasure chest! It was too early and too chilly out for gelato but I did take a few minutes just to enjoy the bins of brightly colored concoctions in the outside stand, too.
Il Cortile
125 Mulberry St (between Hester and Canal)
New York
New York
212.226.6060
Ferrara Bakery and Cafe
195 Grand Street (between Mulberry & Mott Sts.)
(212) 226-6150
195 Grand Street (between Mulberry & Mott Sts.)
(212) 226-6150
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Culinary Fool 
So nice to see that you remember that evening at Il Cortile as well. Making our way through the bustling carnival-like activity of the San Gennaro festival and stepping into the quiet and warmth of the lovely restaurant – a very fond memory indeed.
Of course I remember! I also seem to remember dinner at a place in Greenwich Village and then a little trip to Chelsea… :-) ~ B