NY: Barça 18

02-Nov-2005

I actually lied in my Balthazar post. I did not arrive in NY last Friday but the Friday prior – October 21st. Time is just zipping by! This is a little important because when I tell you that I visited this brand new restaurant, Barça 18, just three days after it opened some of you who know the place might think I’m trying to pull one over! :-) I read about this opening in three separate places. One was in my Daily Candy newsletter, the other was in New York magazine, but I can’t remember the last source at this moment! I had thought one had been MUG but I can’t find it on the site. Frustrating! Anyway, I knew this place was opening and it sounded interesting….

It seems to me that Tapas Bars are the latest rage in Manhattan and Barça 18 was another in a line of recent openings. However, the lineage of this place gave me hope. So Friday evening after finishing my one business meeting, recuperating at my hotel for a bit, and spending some time just wandering around reacquainting myself with the city, I hopped on a subway to Union Square. I walked a couple blocks north to 18th and Park and surveyed the scene from the sidewalk. The dining room was still pretty empty but the bar was starting to get lively. I walked in and took a seat at the bar.

All of the decoration in this place is dramatic. The lights are very low; colors (especially the bar itself!) are saturated; flower arrangements, room dividers and light fixtures are all larger than life. But the ceilings are high so it all works. Well, the jury is still out on the bar – you’ll see a photo below. I was glad they brought me a place mat before serving my food – the pattern was too distracting. I have to say, though, that by the time I left I really wasn’t noticing it anymore.

Barça 18 has an extensive Spanish wine list and, even better, bartenders who seem extremely knowledgeable about the list! I ordered a glass of sherry but heard them field all kinds of questions about the wines and what their recommendations would be. Those sitting near me seemed to be happy with the suggestions made for their tastes.

Many items on the menu called my name, but I decided to start with the Charcuteria Platter for my meal. It arrived in short order and my only complaint was that it was not really tapas size – this was easily a meal for one or one and a half. There was a pile of Jamon Serrano, several slices of an in-house chorizo, Spanish Manchego (but where was the Membrillo??) and lovely, lovely slices of Pan con Tomate. The Pan was amazing! Warm from the oven, fragrant with olive oil and then colorful and flavorful from the tomato rub. I just sighed with happiness. Both the jamon and Manchego were very good, too, but the other item that captivated my tastebuds was the chorizo. I think that a true Spaniard would be appalled. In texture, his sausage reminded me more of an Italian salami than a Spanish sausage except for the flavorings. Chunky, chewy and heavy with smoked paprika I wanted each bite to go on forever.

Although my Charcuteria Platter was more than enough, I had seen too many other items on the menu that I wanted to try. After consulting with the bartender who assured me that the mussels were just a small portion, I placed on order for Mejillones. Liar. There were at least a pound, if not more, of beautiful petite mussels that were placed in front of me when my order arrived. Fragrant with basil, sherry and more of the chorizo, they drew me in with their enticing perfume. Although I could not come close to finishing the order I thoroughly enjoyed those I was able to consume. While sitting at the bar I noticed all kinds of other plates being delivered to those around me. I have to say that many of the dishes would not be considered traditional but they do seem to hold true to the ingredients of Spain – some of the dishes have just been slightly reinterpreted, however.

The one thing that I thought was just too much, however, was their use of "foams". Mojitos came with a Mint-Lime foam perched on top. Stupid. Pitchers of Sangria came with a side carafe of Orange foam. Ridiculous. Don’t restaurateurs understand it’s not necessary to do these bizarre things if the food is good, the service friendly and the prices fair? Makes me want to scream sometimes.

In spite of that I really hope this place does well as I’d love to come back next time I’m in New York. Not only was the food good; I found the staff to be friendly, helpful and knowledgeable; the other clientèle were also friendly (something I always look for since I often travel on my own and I think certain places attract and encourage more interaction); and I like the location.

If you are in town, check it out – I think you’ll be happy you did!

Barça 18

225 Park Avenue South
at 18th Street
New York

212.533.2500

Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6, L to Union Square